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Food Review: Dubai's China Tang offers a new take on old-school Cantonese
| July 4, 2025 11:39 PM CST

I’ll be honest‭. ‬Chinese cuisine has never topped my list‭. ‬Too often‭, ‬it’s a roulette wheel of gloopy sauces and mystery meats‭. ‬But today‭, ‬ladies and gentlemen‭, ‬something rather unexpected happened‭.‬

Upon arrival at China Tang‭, ‬we were greeted with the sort of warmth and polished efficiency that would make even the Swiss blush‭. ‬Nadine showed us to our table‭, ‬delivered a flawless briefing on the restaurant’s philosophy‭, ‬and managed to make us feel like visiting royalty without a hint of pretension‭.‬

The Lana Promenade itself surprised me‭. ‬It’s been some time since I ventured to this neck of the woods‭, ‬but what I found was a rather splendid scene‭ ‬—‭ ‬gleaming buildings‭, ‬a pristine marina‭, ‬and this little jewel of a restaurant tucked elegantly into its surroundings‭.‬

Inside‭, ‬the décor is exactly what you hope for‭: ‬tasteful‭, ‬spacious‭, ‬with light streaming in through vast floor-to-ceiling windows‭. ‬The sort of place where you could linger far longer than you intended‭.‬

Our server‭, ‬Rina‭, ‬took command of the culinary journey‭, ‬explaining that this was elevated Chinese cuisine‭ ‬—‭ ‬a modern‭, ‬creative take‭. ‬A bold claim‭. ‬But as it turned out‭, ‬entirely justified‭.‬

We kicked off proceedings with the vegetarian Sir David’s hot and sour soup‭ ‬—‭ ‬quite frankly‭, ‬a masterclass in balance and depth‭. ‬Then came the crispy duck salad‭, ‬prepared at the table with surgical precision‭, ‬reminiscent of how we used to prepare Caesar salad back in my hotel school days‭, ‬albeit far more artfully executed‭.‬

Next arrived a flurry of small plates‭ ‬—‭ ‬spinach dressed in sesame and peanut‭ (‬utterly addictive‭), ‬Lamb shaomai that were little flavour bombs‭, ‬and some exquisitely crafted vegetable dumplings‭. ‬Each dish arrived with such elegance that I almost felt guilty destroying their visual perfection‭. ‬Almost‭.‬

Then came the main event‭. ‬Half-braised black cod with pickled cabbage‭ ‬—‭ ‬served differently to any black cod I’ve had before‭, ‬moist in its broth‭, ‬rich‭, ‬and utterly magnificent‭. ‬Braised lamb in red sauce arrived like a heavyweight boxer‭: ‬bold‭, ‬intense‭, ‬and impossible to ignore‭. ‬A sizzling stone platter of green beans offered a punchy‭, ‬spicy kick‭, ‬while the grilled radish with black truffle was‭, ‬frankly‭, ‬a revelation‭. ‬Who knew radish could be like this‭? ‬I’m still thinking about it‭.‬

By this stage‭, ‬stomach capacity was running dangerously low‭. ‬Yet‭, ‬Rina‭, ‬with a glint in her eye‭, ‬persuaded us to sample a few desserts‭. ‬The chilled sichuan jelly and the mango pomelo sago were both beautifully presented‭, ‬delicately balanced‭, ‬and precisely‭ ‬served at just the right temperature‭. ‬Though‭, ‬like many acquired tastes‭, ‬your mileage may vary‭.‬

China Tang has performed the near impossible‭: ‬it has changed my perception of Chinese cuisine‭. ‬Exceptional food‭, ‬pitch-perfect service‭, ‬and a setting that invites you to stay far longer than you should‭. ‬Highly recommended‭.‬

Hero dish‭:‬‭ ‬

I’m always torn‮…‬‭ ‬If forced to choose‭, ‬black cod‭ ‬—‭ ‬10/10

VIBES‭:‬‭ ‬

Lunchtime was quiet‭. ‬I would like to try dining here in the evening‭ ‬—‭ ‬9/10‭ ‬

Menu curation‭:‬‭ ‬
Exceptional‭ ‬—‭ ‬10/10‭

Service‭:‬
Our server‭, ‬Rina‭, ‬was polite‭, ‬knowledgeable‭, ‬commendable‭ ‬—‭ ‬10/10‬

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