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Once regarded as the richest man in the world, Mir Osman Ali Khan, the last Nizam of Hyderabad, was not just a ruler, but he was a patron of legacy, luxury and fine craftsmanship. Among the many global relationships he fostered, one stands out for its brilliance and beauty- his enduring connection with the French luxury house Cartier.

At a time when Hyderabad was not just known for its palaces but also for its unparalleled collection of Golconda diamonds, Basra pearls, emeralds and much more, the Nizam quietly forged a cross-continental relationship that would influence royal jewelry for decades.

This is the story of how Hyderabad’s jewels met Parisian design and how one of India’s greatest royals became a silent yet powerful muse for one of the world’s most celebrated luxury brands.

A royal wedding gift

In 1947, when Princess Elizabeth (later Queen Elizabeth II) was set to marry Prince Philip, the Nizam of Hyderabad offered her a wedding gift. He ordered Cartier London to let the Princess pick any two things she wanted from their collection.

Elizabeth selected a platinum necklace studded with over 300 diamonds, originally designed by Cartier in the 1930s. Known today as the Nizam of Hyderabad Necklace, it features a detachable double-drop pendant of emerald-cut and pear-shaped diamonds.

Over the years, Queen Elizabeth II wore the necklace often, most notably in her 1952 official portrait. In later years, she also lent the piece to Kate Middleton, the Princess of Wales, at royal engagements in 2014 and 2019.

Notably, she also chose a Cartier floral tiara with three detachable rose brooches as her second wedding gift. Though the tiara was later dismantled to create the Burmese Ruby Tiara, the brooches continue to be worn to this day.

Commissioning pieces

While the Nizam of Hyderabad Necklace is a popular piece, what many don’t know is that it was not a one-off connection. The relationship between the House of Cartier and the Nizam ran deeper.

Hyderabad was famous for its Basra pearls and Golconda diamonds, and the Nizam’s treasury was full of them. At the time, it was common for Indian royals to send their personal gems to European designers to be reset into modern styles, and the Nizam followed this too. He often commissioned Cartier to design custom pieces for him and his family using his personal collection of diamonds, rubies, emeralds and pearls.

Cartier’s London office, in particular, handled many such royal commissions. One famous example is a 17.5-carat green diamond that Cartier bought from the Nizam in the 1930s and later repurposed into another royal necklace.

Cartier often adapted Mughal design motifs and paired them with their signature Art Deco style to create a unique cross-cultural aesthetic. This was not just commerce, it was art diplomacy.

A legacy beyond jewellery

This connection between the Nizam and Cartier is more than just a story of diamonds and tiaras but tells a deeper story of diplomacy and the global influence of Hyderabad’s royal family. Even today, pieces that originated from this relationship continue to sparkle on the world stage, reminding us of a time when Hyderabad’s treasures travelled across continents to become part of history.

As Cartier remains a symbol of luxury, the Nizam’s jewels live on as testaments to an era when Hyderabadi royalty shaped the finest jewellery of the world.