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Jalebi History: What could be better than hot jalebi and accompanying samosa or pakoda on a rainy evening? If you add a cup of hot tea on top of it, the taste further increases. Jalebi is such a sweet which hardly anyone recognizes in India. But do you know that Jalebi, which we consider a purely Indian sweet, has its roots outside India?

The story of Jalebi is much older than India

According to historians, the initial story of sweets like Jalebi goes to West Asia. There it was known by names like ‘Zalabiya’ or ‘Zulabiya’. It is also mentioned in books to medieval Arabic cooking. These include the famous 10th century book ‘Kitab al-Tabikh’, which was written by Ibn Sayyar al-Warraq. Apart from this, this sweet is also mentioned in the cookery book of Muhammad bin Hassan al-Baghdadi in the 13th century.

Then how did Jalebi reach India?

With time this sweet reached the Indian subcontinent from West Asia. After coming to India, its recipe and method of preparation kept changing according to the taste and traditions here. By about the 15th century, mention of Jalebi started being found in Indian literature also. Jalebi is mentioned in the context of a businessman’s food in the Jain text ‘Priyankaranripkatha’, written around 1450 AD. That is, even though Jalebi may have come from outside India, India has made it a part of its taste and culture.

Many forms of Jalebi in India too

Many forms of Jalebi are seen in different regions of India. At some places its name is different and at some places the method of preparation and ingredients also change. For example, in Bengal, Jalebi is called ‘Jillipi’. Amriti also looks like Jalebi, but the way of making it is different. According to Kolkata-based food writer Indrajit Lahiri, there are many varieties of Jilipi in Bengal. To make Amriti, a relatively thick solution and a different process is used. At some places, Jilipi is also made from Chhena i.e. cheese, which is called ‘Chhenar Jilipi’. At the same time, ‘Moong Jilipi’ or ‘Papri’ made from moong dal is also available in Midnapore region of West Bengal.

Jalebi and Imarti are not the same

Often Jalebi and Imarti are considered to be different forms of the same sweet, but there is a lot of difference between the two. What is commonly called Imarti in North India, is called ‘Jangiri’ or ‘Jangri’ in some parts of South India. Imarti is usually made from urad dal batter and its shape is thicker and more flower-like than jalebi. There is less syrup in it as compared to Jalebi. A popular story about Imarti is that it was built during the Mughal period for Prince Salim, i.e. the later emperor Jahangir and hence it was named ‘Jangiri’. However, this story is not completely authenticated historically and there are different beliefs regarding its name and origin.

So is Jalebi Indian or not?

This is the most interesting part of this whole story. Jalebi’s earliest roots appear to be in West Asia, but today’s Indian jalebi is firmly a part of Indian identity. Its ingredients, shape, texture, solution, syrup and way of eating have changed over the centuries in India. Today Jalebi is a part of Indian festivals, weddings, religious events and even the breakfast table in many places.