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An eight-course gourmet journey through Telangana at ROCH Chef’s Table in Hyderabad

With admissions through reservations only, the cosy 10-seater space is centered around the chef’s counter, where one gets to see all their dishes being plated. As goes the tradition in Telangana, we were offered a glass of toddy upon entering. The twist? The toddy is pasteurised, making it devoid of any alcoholic content, blended with strawberry to make a refreshing beverage.

For the appetizerwe were served the Sarvapindi tartlet, with yoghurt gel, banana chilli, grilled chicken and peanut parmesan. While the initial bite immediately reminded us of the crispy savoury snack, the banana chilli added a surprising sweetness to the bite.

The Mackerel makka vada with a creamy corn custard and gongura gel was a sight to behold. One bite in, and it offered a myriad of textures, with the creaminess from the custard cutting through the crunch of the vadawhile the gongura completely dominated the flavour profile later on.

From appetisers, the Rasam chawanmushi featured black onion paste that was slow cooked for a whopping four weeks, that rendered it a funky, deeply umami flavour. Served with a picture-flavoured light custard that was delicious and a chilli foam that packed in a punch, the dish was a masterclass in layering local flavours with Japanese techniques.

Between courses, we were served the Gongura flower bordera sweet, zingy change that cut through the richness of the previous dishes. The courses are spaced out, with ample opportunity to speak with other guests at the table.

The main course featured Mutton neck with toddy brioche and Kalinkaya rice with a herb curry and beetroot purée. Every element on the plate was easily noticable, each offering a different texture and flavour profile. The star, however, was the mutton neck with incredibly soft meat cooked to a crisp.

Dessert was the highlight of our meal, with the Payasam custard tart served with a bobbed cream and strawberry podi. While payasam got a continental avatar, turned into a cheesecake-like consistency, the bobbed cream was deeply resonant of Telugu festivals at home.

The Petit Fours featured the Sunday night cake, taking the everyday laddoo found in Telugu homes and flipping it into a gourmet bake. The fluffy sponge layered with the aromatic caramel-like cream of Sunday night made our journey through the two Telugu states absolutely decadent.

Meal for two: ₹7,000++.Wednesdays & Sundays, 7 pm. At Kondapur.