Top News

The Amalfi Coast, celebrated for its stunning cliffs and beautiful beaches, has long battled the effects of overtourism. In a bid to alleviate the relentless congestion, 2022 saw the introduction of a number plate system on the coast.

This scheme alternates road access between vehicles with odd and even-numbered plates each day.

This measure was intended to ease the constant gridlock that plagues the 21-mile coastal stretch, which a taxi driver described as "a nightmare" during my return to Naples airport. A journey expected to last an hour stretched to two, resulting in a frantic sprint through airport security.

Upon reaching the beautiful town of Positano in the Amalfi Coast, I was immediately struck by the stunning pastel-hued houses perched on the cliffs, a sight I had only previously admired in photographs. However, the second thing that caught my attention was the throng of tourists.

Despite it being early June, Positano's port, beach and narrow streets were teeming with day-trippers who had arrived on boats, buses and trains. On this scorching day, with temperatures already hitting 25C by 11am, the beach was awash with sun-worshippers sprawled on towels and loungers. Meanwhile, lengthy queues formed for the ferries destined for other popular spots along the Amalfi Coast, such as Capri, Salerno, and Sorrento. Particularly around the port area, navigating through the crowds without bumping into fellow tourists proved challenging.

The air was heavy with the scent of engine oil and exhaust fumes, while the cacophony of the crowd made it anything but peaceful. As I gazed out at the sea from the village, numerous boats bobbed in the shimmering blue water, poised to unload yet another wave of eager visitors keen to capture Positano's breathtaking cliffside on camera.

It's undeniably one of the most picturesque towns I've ever visited. However, the overwhelming influx of tourists, myself included, has somewhat diminished its charm.

"Welcome to the Amalfi Coast, the most beautiful place in the world," exclaimed my taxi driver as he whisked us from Naples Airport, setting the stage for our Italian escapade. My curiosity about Positano piqued during the scenic drive to our Sorrento hotel, prompting me to ask for his thoughts on the town.

Positano was "beautiful, but busy," he shared, a sentiment I'd soon understand firsthand as I encountered its bustling atmosphere - despite having braved crowds in major tourist cities such as Barcelona and Rome. Yet, nothing could brace me for the breathtaking village of Positano, the UNSECO-listed gem perched atop cliff sides cascading into the Tyrrhenian Sea.

As with much of the Amalfi Coast, Positano is synonymous with oversized lemons, signature limoncello, and, of course, the rich and famous. Celebrities such as Leonardo DiCaprio and the Kardashians are known to have holidayed along this coastline by yacht, drawn to its crystal-clear waters, chic hotels, and upscale eateries. And it's not just VIPs - thanks to TikTok fame, throngs of visitors now flock here, lured by viral videos of the local fare and stunning vistas.

This picturesque locale is home to less than 4,000 inhabitants, yet during the high season, tourist numbers soar, with the broader Amalfi region attracting over four million visitors annually - a testament to both its magnetism and the challenge of preserving its charm amidst tourism's tide.

Day-trippers from cruise ships and tour buses flock to picturesque villages in the Amalfi Coast, often without contributing significantly to the local economy due to their brief visits - they don't often not stay overnight.

These idyllic spots weren't built for the influx of cars and crowds they now receive. The narrow, winding roads, particularly the SS163 Amalfi Drive, are notorious for traffic jams, ranking among Europe's most scenic yet congested routes. Parking is scarce, buses are packed, and the seas swarm with private boats and ferries, raising concerns about marine pollution and ecosystem damage.

"Every day is like this with the traffic," he remarked, underscoring the severity of the situation.

Local initiatives, such as the opening of Salerno-Costa d'Amalfi Airport, are aiming to distribute tourists more evenly across the region. There's also a growing push for off-season tourism to balance visitor numbers throughout the year.

This follows similar measures implemented by several Italian destinations to manage tourism, including Venice's day-tripper tax and restrictions on cruise ship docking.

While it's too early to forecast the future of the Amalfi Coast, it could potentially become the next casualty of overtourism.

Travel advice for the Amalfi Coast

• Visit in the shoulder season (April to May or September to October) for a quieter, more meaningful experience.
• Stay overnight and support local hotels, shops, and restaurants - not just big cruise lines.
• Take public transport or ferries instead of driving.
• Respect the environment: stay on trails, reduce plastic use, and leave no trace.

---