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I visited a pretty little European village that's better than Como - hardly any tourists
Reach Daily Express | June 29, 2025 3:39 PM CST

Lake Como draws in tourists year after year, and it's not surprising, as the scenery is amazingly beautiful. The Italian lakes are absolutely stunning and will offer views like you've never seen before if you're visiting for the first time.

But when it gets really busy, too many tourists can spoil the peaceful vibe, so discovering the more hidden spots is something I always set out to do. While on holiday recently in the region of Lombardy, Northern Italy, I visited a village that's not saturated with holidaymakers - and it was divine. Varenna offers spectacular views of Lake Como, however, it is on the other side of the Italian lakes, situated on the Lake Lecco branch - and the lesser-known eastern shore of Lake Como.

In Varenna, you'll find tiny cobbled streets, great shops, peaceful botanical gardens and an old castle - which I found spooky, more on that later.

The village is situated on a steep slope that leads down to the lake. If you wish, boat trips will take you to and from several other destinations, including Como.

Varenna is also reachable by train or bus from many other places - I arrived in the village by bus from the Italian city of Lecco.

The first thing I noticed was how colourful Varenna is, it was early in June so there were a few visitors but not too many.

Then I discovered a way to admire the lake view from an area with even fewer fellow tourists - the unmissable Villa Monastero botanical garden.

There is an entry fee to get into these unforgettable gardens - adult tickets are €10 - but it's really worth it as the place is gorgeous.

Eye-catching views await you here, along with unusual plants and massive trees in the lush continental gardens. It's a dreamy place.

You can wander around - and I guarantee you'll spot some very glamorous people - or sit and soak up the sun on one of the many seats dotted about the gardens.

If you have a furry friend with you, Varenna even has a dog beach, which is a short walk away from the Villa Monastero botanical garden.

You are able to wander along this part of the lake by taking the Passeggiata degli Innamorati, which means Lover's Walk in English.

If you're fit and able, you can also head up an extremely steep ascent which takes you away from the village area of Varenna to visit the ancient Italian castle, Castello di Vezio.

But be warned, on a hot day, this exhausting uphill walk is no picnic - and even coming back down was rather perilous.

One recent reviewer on Google described the hefty climb to the castle spot after heading there a week ago.

They wrote: "Definitely worth the visit! The most beautiful views I've ever seen. The climb up is very tough, over a kilometer of pebble stones uphill."

I got spooked by the dungeon area at Castello di Vezio, the castle itself was intriguing and it was the first old Italian castle I'd ever seen.

However, the dark, damp dungeon underneath the landmark is also a popular draw for tourists, but I felt terrified there and had to get out quickly!

Something about the dungeon and its feeling of past life and death freaked me out on my visit, but the whole castle experience was generally well worth the hike.

One other thing to mention about Varenna - bearing in mind I visited this charming village out of peak season.

I happen to live in an area popular with tourists, so when I'm travelling, I always consider those who live in holiday hotspots.

During my visit to Varenna I heard one local shouting at a couple of tourists who'd wandered into a private area to take a selfie.

I'd imagine in August, when it's super busy, this must be very frustrating for Italian residents - so having some common sense and remembering people also live in these stunning places is key.

And visiting out of season, if you possibly can, will mean you'll have a much more authentic experience at the Italian lakes.


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