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Troyes is only a 90-minute train ride from Paris but, compared to the capital, it’s a more compact and intimate location for a French mini-break. You’ll find atmospheric churches, attractive independent shops and chic museums, making it the ideal place to explore for a few days. Although it’s a very popular stop-off point for holidaymakers driving further south in France or onwards to Germany or Switzerland, a car isn’t a necessity. We travelled to Paris first via Eurostar –a much more environmentally-friendly option than flying – then took the train to Troyes. (It’s a 10-minute walk between Gare du Nord and Gare de l’Est in Paris.) Once in Troyes, we were able to explore much of the town on foot.

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Troyes is a pretty city with lots of half-timbered buildings in the old town that were largely built in the 16th century. There are countless cobbled streets to wander down and the atmosphere is relaxed and friendly.

Two museums well worth taking a stroll around are the Musée d’Art Moderne and the Cite du Vitrail.

• The Modern Art Museum , located next to the cathedral, is home to paintings by artists such as Henri Matisse and André Derain. The sloping ceilings on the upper floor make it feel cosy and visitors can enjoy a sense of proximity to the artwork.

• The Cite du Vitrail is the stained glass museum and it is a wonderful, tranquil venue where you can immerse yourself in the elegance and beauty of stained glass. Located in an 18th century building, it explores stained glass from the Middle Ages to the present day and houses striking and memorable exhibits.

Being in the heart of the Champagne region, discovering its most famous export is a must. Chassenay d’Arce champagne house in Ville-sur-Arce is about an hour’s drive from Troyes. It was founded in 1956 by five pioneers and the organisation is now made up of 130 families, with a focus on co-operation and knowledge-sharing.

Visiting its vast cellars and seeing how the bottles are produced is a real eye-opener, and the tasting workshop at the end of the tour is an obvious highlight for champagne connoisseurs and novices alike (see chassenay.com).

Troyes is a straightforward place to explore, but if you really want to find out about its history then a guided tour is a must. Hosted by Troyes La Champagne Tourisme, tours can be arranged for smaller or larger groups, of up to 30 people. Our host, Laura Dudek, was a well-informed, enthusiastic guide who tailored the experience to our interests, taking us to see many of the city’s ornate and impressive churches and cathedrals. For those who prefer to go it alone, you can explore with a City Pass, which includes an audioguide and admission to the museums.

A flute of champagne is no doubt on the agenda for many visitors, and most of the bars and cafés have a variety of local brands to sample.

Octave is a sophisticated, rather understated restaurant located in the centre of Troyes with a beautiful courtyard, where you can enjoy dinner under the stars – usually joined by the friendly cat who lives nearby. The tapas style menu may look daunting at first glance, but the knowledgeable staff are happy to advise and we were very pleased with their recommendations.

For a speedy, fuss-free lunch while sightseeing, Tonton Farine is a welcoming bakery/canteen where everything is homemade. As it’s France, everything tastes more wholesome and delicious than a British equivalent. Most of the other customers looked like they were locals on their lunch break.

If you’re away from Troyes enjoying a champagne tour, Le Moussec in Les Riceys is a fabulous place to stop for lunch. The dishes are tasty and hearty, the restaurant is buzzing, which is always a good sign, and the staff are warm and attentive without being suffocating.

Two elegant boutique hotels, La Maison de Rhodes and Le Champ des Oiseaux, are located in adjoining medieval buildings and offer a combined 23 rooms. Owned and run by the same family, the welcoming hotels are a great base from which to explore the city.

Room categories and decor vary between the two properties, but guests share access to a range of amenities, such as a tranquil walled garden (we were getting Romeo and Juliet vibes), an outdoor heated pool and a small spa. The restaurant has an elegant yet homely ambiance and after your evening meal you can enjoy a nightcap in the moonlit garden. Once settled with a glass of wine, some nibbles and a book, it’s incredibly hard to drag yourself away.

Rooms at La Maison de Rhodes start from £245 and Le Champ des Oiseaux start from £174 per night on a B&B basis – see maisonderhodes.com. To book a tour of the town, see troyeslachampagne.com. Eurostar journeys between London and Paris start from £39 each way – see eurostar.com. Fares are all-inclusive with no hidden extras, children under four go free, and a Paris-London journey by Eurostar means 96% fewer CO2 emissions than travelling by plane.