Comilla lies 100 kilometres east of Dhaka on N-1, the main artery between Dhaka and Chittagong. A few kilometres off Sitalakshya Bridge, a street branches off to Langalbandho, about 27 kilometres east of Dhaka. This is the holy confluence of the Sitalakshya, Brahmaputra, and Meghna rivers. With the arrival of the month of Chaitra, Langalbandho gears up for a four-day bathing festival when thousands of Hindus descend on the banks of the rivers for a holy dip. Pandals and barricades are set up and bathing ghats are spruced up for the occasion.
The highway cuts through Narayanganj and Sonargaon. At Mograpara, a left turn took one to Panam Nagar, the “ghost city” of merchants long dead. Up ahead, the road passed through Gazaria, where a pilgrim rush to Langalbandho held up traffic on the Meghna Bridge. A little ahead at Daudkandi, high sand hills cover the banks of the Gomti River as heavy cranes excavate sand from the river bed.
A short detour at Gauripur Bazaar took us to Majidpur, where Mamun wanted to show me the ruins of a zamindar’s rajbari. This ended in great confusion as the rajbari was nowhere to be found, and we returned to the main highway...
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