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Perhaps the best-known of all its collections, Patek Philippe’s Calatrava has been a solid pillar of the brand since 1932.

The line’s clean, simple design was initially inspired by the Bauhaus movement, which emphasizes functionality and geometric shapes as part of its principles. Functionality, of course, is an important value for the watchmaker, whose mechanical movements boast extraordinary timekeeping performance.

The Calatrava collection has included a variety of complications and style options in its 90-plus years of existence, including diamond-set versions, perpetual calendars and minute repeaters. This year, a hand-wound movement joins the Calatrava lineup as an “everyday complication” in the new reference 5328G watch, according to the brand.

The timepiece’s 31-505 8J PS IRM CI movement will operate for a full eight days when fully wound. This makes it possible for the day display (in an aperture at 6 o’clock) to advance at the precise moment that the date progresses around its subdial to the next numeral. At midnight, the date and day, via two separate mechanisms, move in perfect synchronicity.

The instantaneous mechanism is made possible, in part, by cutting-edge technological optimizations and innovations developed in the Patek Philippe Advanced Research program. The movement’s lever and escape wheel are crafted of the brand’s proprietary Silinvar, a silicon-based material that’s lightweight, nonmagnetic and highly resistant to temperature fluctuations. Its two barrels allow for enough energy storage to sustain the extra-long power reserve over eight days. (The watch’s clear sapphire caseback allows for a full view of this exquisitely finished movement.)

The watch’s power reserve level is displayed at 12 o’clock, via an indicator that resembles a car’s fuel gauge. The hand slowly advances along the arc of the indicator, and when the watch is running low on energy, the hand enters a red zone. The red zone indicates that the timepiece has entered the ninth day, alerting the wearer that the watch needs to be wound.

But the movement isn’t the timepiece’s only distinctive feature. Its 18-karat white-gold case features the Calatrava’s signature Clous de Paris, or “hobnail” pattern — not on its bezel (where you’d normally find it) but on the sides of the case.

Its blue dial features a subtle texture inspired by a vintage camera case, the color gradually deepening to black at the rim. Patek aficionados will recognize this texture, which was first used in the reference 5226G-001 Calatrava, introduced in 2022.

Adding to its versatility, the watch comes with two quick-change straps, one crafted of navy blue calfskin with a fabric pattern and cream stitching, the second in taupe grained calfskin. Patek Philippe’s new patented triple-blade foldover clasp is easily exchanged from one strap to the other with no tools required.

The 18-karat white-gold clasp features the Calatrava cross emblem, which was officially trademarked in 1887. The cross’s resemblance to the fleur-de-lis of the French royal arms is clear, but its exact origins “remain enigmatic,” according to the brand.

“This emblem of prestige and sovereignty quite possibly influenced the choice of a lily motif to symbolize the company’s excellence.”